It's nice to see that the eu5 production team is willing to take on board the community's opinions and change the sinicized representatives to wear the Sinicized official uniforms. However there are still some issues with the costumes on the newly released preview image (hereafter referred to as Figure 1).
First of all let's start by identifying exactly what kind of costume the people on the picture are wearing; the turban is obvious. The problem, however, lies mainly with the dress they are wearing, which is the round-collar robe"圆领袍" yúanlǐngpáo .
The round-collar robe serves as the official official dress (including court dress"朝服" , public dress "公服" , and regular dress "常服" . Here we will focus on the most common official dress in the public perception, i.e., the most common public and regular dress) has four main periods, Tang, Five Dynasties, Song, and Ming. Therefore, before discussing the correctness or incorrectness of the costumes, we must determine which period's round-collar robe the people in this picture are wearing.
The round-collar robes worn as official uniforms during the Song and Ming dynasties had wide sleeves, not the narrow sleeves shown in the picture. Figure two on the left up one is typical of the Ming Dynasty, you can see its wide sleeves;
Figure three is kúi robe"䙆袍", which is the Song Dynasty on the lack of crotch round-collar robe, kúi 䙆 that is, for the hem of the robe, four kúi robe "四䙆袍“ sìkúipáo that is for the hem of the open fork, divided into four parts of the round-collar robe. It can be seen in the excavated artefacts kúi robe is the same is also wide-sleeved.
The official costume of the Five Dynasties continued the tradition of the longer hemmed openned robes "缺胯袍" (i.e., round-collar robes with open hems) since the Late Tang Dynasty (the second from the right in Fig. 4 is the most typical), which is inconsistent with the obviously unopened robe "接襕袍" jīelánpáo (i.e., Fig. 5, with a piece of fabric sewn across the hem and called an "襕" lán). Therefore, the drawing should be based on the most classic Tang round-necked robe.
Now that we have established that the figure is a Tang round-necked robe, it is time for us to suggest changes to the costume of Figure 1, which has some mistakes.
Firstly, we can see that there is a distinctive lace at the hem and collar of the round-necked gown, or rim "缘边" (Lace sewn along the edges) , or what is often referred to as lace "镶边" (lace around the edges) in Qing dynasty dress and modern cheongsams. As the Tang, Song and Ming prohibited officials from wearing clothing with distinctive floral patterns in order to prevent official corruption, and lace was also included, this kind of edge does not appear on the round-collar gown.
Secondly, the third from the left and the second from the right of the collar there is a clear flip, which is only present in the Qing official clothing system collar clothing "领衣" features, that is, Figure 6 in the clothes on the blue flip collar, which is actually similar to the modern Western-style false collar of a kind of wear in the inner robes fake collar, the Qing dynasty because of its similarity in shape, so it is commonly known as the ‘cow tongue’, Figure 7 that is, the actual picture of the artifacts, although the round-collar robes of the Tang dynasty does exist to a certain degree of the collar, but the collar is usually just less than a centimetre high, but it's not a collar. Usually only less than a centimetre high, is absolutely impossible to turn out.
Thirdly, if the collar problem I mentioned in the second paragraph is not a flared collar, but a leakage of the inner shirt, it is even more impossible. What can reveal the internal lining are Song round collars and Ming round collars, two types of round-collar robes with lower collars where the internal cross-collar “交领” lining would show. Not the Tang round collar. Figure 8 shows the Song round collar and Figure 9 shows the Ming round collar. As can be seen, the Song and Ming round collars have lower collars compared to the Tang round collar, and the internal cross-collar lining would naturally be exposed. Therefore, the official uniform on the figure, which is modelled on the Tang round collar, should not reveal its internal interlocking shirt collar.
Fourthly, the issue of the waistband or patch. It can be seen that the waistbands of the people on the picture are quite wide, which is a common feature of female waistbands in the Tang Dynasty, and should not appear on male official uniforms. Tang round collars as official uniforms were generally belted with leather straps at the waist, i.e., as shown in Figure 5, right one and right two (which are more obvious). I can't tell if it's a belt or a patch, but all we need to know is that the patch only appeared on official clothing in the Ming Hongwu era, so we can see that the patch shouldn't be here.
In addition, for the unsinicized representation, I would suggest that the artist could have modified the right side of the garment to be left-facing "左衽", i.e., the lapels facing to the left rather than the right, to differentiate it from the traditional sinicized garment with the lapels facing to the right"右衽". Left-facing sashes have been one of the distinctive features of the so-called ‘barbarians’ since the Zhou Dynasty, and Confucius once said, "Without the efforts of Guanzhong, we would have to wear our hair loose and our sashes left-facing" "微管仲，吾披发左衽矣"。Because when Guan Zhong "管仲"was the prime minister of Qi, he led the resistance against the Di people "狄人" who invaded along the Yellow River, and who once even wiped out the state of Wey "卫", his resistance played a very important role in preventing the Di people from continuing their southward march. So the use of left-facing obeisance can more clearly reflect its unsinicized features.
I hope this helps, and I think helping the eu5 producers to better refine the content of the game should be a matter we players are happy to do!
First of all let's start by identifying exactly what kind of costume the people on the picture are wearing; the turban is obvious. The problem, however, lies mainly with the dress they are wearing, which is the round-collar robe"圆领袍" yúanlǐngpáo .
The round-collar robe serves as the official official dress (including court dress"朝服" , public dress "公服" , and regular dress "常服" . Here we will focus on the most common official dress in the public perception, i.e., the most common public and regular dress) has four main periods, Tang, Five Dynasties, Song, and Ming. Therefore, before discussing the correctness or incorrectness of the costumes, we must determine which period's round-collar robe the people in this picture are wearing.
The round-collar robes worn as official uniforms during the Song and Ming dynasties had wide sleeves, not the narrow sleeves shown in the picture. Figure two on the left up one is typical of the Ming Dynasty, you can see its wide sleeves;
Figure three is kúi robe"䙆袍", which is the Song Dynasty on the lack of crotch round-collar robe, kúi 䙆 that is, for the hem of the robe, four kúi robe "四䙆袍“ sìkúipáo that is for the hem of the open fork, divided into four parts of the round-collar robe. It can be seen in the excavated artefacts kúi robe is the same is also wide-sleeved.
The official costume of the Five Dynasties continued the tradition of the longer hemmed openned robes "缺胯袍" (i.e., round-collar robes with open hems) since the Late Tang Dynasty (the second from the right in Fig. 4 is the most typical), which is inconsistent with the obviously unopened robe "接襕袍" jīelánpáo (i.e., Fig. 5, with a piece of fabric sewn across the hem and called an "襕" lán). Therefore, the drawing should be based on the most classic Tang round-necked robe.
Now that we have established that the figure is a Tang round-necked robe, it is time for us to suggest changes to the costume of Figure 1, which has some mistakes.
Firstly, we can see that there is a distinctive lace at the hem and collar of the round-necked gown, or rim "缘边" (Lace sewn along the edges) , or what is often referred to as lace "镶边" (lace around the edges) in Qing dynasty dress and modern cheongsams. As the Tang, Song and Ming prohibited officials from wearing clothing with distinctive floral patterns in order to prevent official corruption, and lace was also included, this kind of edge does not appear on the round-collar gown.
Secondly, the third from the left and the second from the right of the collar there is a clear flip, which is only present in the Qing official clothing system collar clothing "领衣" features, that is, Figure 6 in the clothes on the blue flip collar, which is actually similar to the modern Western-style false collar of a kind of wear in the inner robes fake collar, the Qing dynasty because of its similarity in shape, so it is commonly known as the ‘cow tongue’, Figure 7 that is, the actual picture of the artifacts, although the round-collar robes of the Tang dynasty does exist to a certain degree of the collar, but the collar is usually just less than a centimetre high, but it's not a collar. Usually only less than a centimetre high, is absolutely impossible to turn out.
Thirdly, if the collar problem I mentioned in the second paragraph is not a flared collar, but a leakage of the inner shirt, it is even more impossible. What can reveal the internal lining are Song round collars and Ming round collars, two types of round-collar robes with lower collars where the internal cross-collar “交领” lining would show. Not the Tang round collar. Figure 8 shows the Song round collar and Figure 9 shows the Ming round collar. As can be seen, the Song and Ming round collars have lower collars compared to the Tang round collar, and the internal cross-collar lining would naturally be exposed. Therefore, the official uniform on the figure, which is modelled on the Tang round collar, should not reveal its internal interlocking shirt collar.
Fourthly, the issue of the waistband or patch. It can be seen that the waistbands of the people on the picture are quite wide, which is a common feature of female waistbands in the Tang Dynasty, and should not appear on male official uniforms. Tang round collars as official uniforms were generally belted with leather straps at the waist, i.e., as shown in Figure 5, right one and right two (which are more obvious). I can't tell if it's a belt or a patch, but all we need to know is that the patch only appeared on official clothing in the Ming Hongwu era, so we can see that the patch shouldn't be here.
In addition, for the unsinicized representation, I would suggest that the artist could have modified the right side of the garment to be left-facing "左衽", i.e., the lapels facing to the left rather than the right, to differentiate it from the traditional sinicized garment with the lapels facing to the right"右衽". Left-facing sashes have been one of the distinctive features of the so-called ‘barbarians’ since the Zhou Dynasty, and Confucius once said, "Without the efforts of Guanzhong, we would have to wear our hair loose and our sashes left-facing" "微管仲，吾披发左衽矣"。Because when Guan Zhong "管仲"was the prime minister of Qi, he led the resistance against the Di people "狄人" who invaded along the Yellow River, and who once even wiped out the state of Wey "卫", his resistance played a very important role in preventing the Di people from continuing their southward march. So the use of left-facing obeisance can more clearly reflect its unsinicized features.
I hope this helps, and I think helping the eu5 producers to better refine the content of the game should be a matter we players are happy to do!
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